There is nothing quite like the first visit to that short piece of the northern coast of Ispaniola defined by the small fishing village of Punta Rusia, to the west, and the beach at La Ensenada, to the East. It is a world unto itself, insulated from time and protected from the assault of civilization by its unique location, unusual topography and very special people. And yet, for all its simplicity and remoteness once people arrive they don't seem to need much more.

Turning off the main road from Santiago, Highway 1, at the little crossroads village of Villa Elisa is like exiting a highway in some remote corner of the world in search of gas; you can only hope you guessed right and that you will find a station before you run out. Suddenly the pavement that was not great to begin with becomes spotty and then it gives way to a dusty gravel that must be carefully navigated to avoid the potholes and the ruts. You are rising into the hills that have defined the valley you followed up from the city. And then it happens, when you think the last filling has been knocked out of your teeth, the ocean suddenly appears below like a turquoise carpet with while streaks. The first impression is always of something totally undisturbed and pristine, a secret world just waiting to be discovered. This first glimpse of the southern Atlantic is little more than a teaser, which is quickly obscured by the growing density of the foliage as you descend to the coast.

It is somewhat disorienting as the road winds its way through the forest. Before too long, though, little wooden houses seem to indicate the presence of a town or village. First you see the sign, and then you are suddenly at the water's edge. Punta Rusia might seem like a funny name for a place with no point and no relationship with Rusia, but such is life in the Dominican Republic where nothing is quite as it appears. To your left is the ocean gently lapping at the soft sandy beaches that define the edge of the road while to your right you are conscious of a busy community of friendly people going about their lives. There is an incongruity of people, place and activity. A few fancy apartments and very large homes are interspersed with simple wooden shacks. Expensive SUVs wend their way through barefoot children playing in the street. And just as it appeared, it disappears as you continue along the coast.

So you start to ask yourself, where is the house? Village gives way to farmland. A simple wooden sign announces that you can get your tire fixed, but there does not appear to be any shop. Up to your right a new, white house looks down from the hill top. It is hard to believe you are almost there.

The house was designed by Nelson Santos and his mother to take maximum advantage of its spectacular setting. From the moment you turn the corner in the drive it draws you in and lures you on. There are so many little details from the entrance gate labeled Tranquility Gate (el Portal de la Tranquilidad) as you enter and Gate of Happy Memories (el Portal de los Recuerdos Felizes) as you leave or the carving that greets you as you park the car: Donde el Corazon se inclina, el pie camina. (Home is where the heart leads us.) You find yourself wanting to pause perpetually to take it all in, but your excitement draws you on.

For all its imposing grandeur there is really nothing pretentious about the Hacienda. It is just a comfortable refuge for those who have had the persistence to seek it out. As you settle in and start to explore the natural beauty of the beach and the surrounding landscape you come to realize just what a perfect compliment the house is to all that is so special about this community of fishermen, farmers and beach people. It is definitely not a resort and does not even pretend to be and yet the experience of spending time here is every bit as lavish and restorative.

Like the materials from which the house is built everything is just a combination of basic ingredients. Each of the rooms represents one of the four elements of nature: air, water, earth and fire that are the basic building blocks of your experience here. The first thing you notice here is the air. It is clear and fresh, with just a hint of sea and the fragrance of plants. This is the theme for the quiet ground floor room with its own bath.

Each room is adequate for multiple guests although bed configurations vary by room. In addition to the natural ventilation provided by the constant trade winds, every room is equipped with a ceiling fan for those occasional still nights. The winds always tend to go down with the sun.

Every where you look there is water. The house provides spectacular views of two bays, one where you will swim and the other a stretch of the open ocean. Water is an all consuming part of life at La Ensenda. And so the water room with its single, queen bed gives you a unique balcony vantage.

Water always finds earth. This part of the country is alive with plants and animals enjoying the richness of the land. It is this juxtaposition that creates its special charm. While the water tends to be constant it is the land that gives rise to the special quality of the seasons. Winter rains turn the fields and hillsides deep green and unleash the sweet smells of its fertility, while the hot Caribbean sun parches the land through the long months of summer turning everything a soft brown.

And so the earth suite shares a bath with the water suite. Somewhat darker and more protected at the back of the house this is where you can share a room with a friend in one of the two double beds.

Bathroom facilities are commodious and consistent with American standards. Guests need have no concern about being able to enjoy a nice shower after a long day of sun and sand. There is always plenty of warm water and fresh towels to prepare for dinner and the activities of the evening.

The truly transformative element is fire, and so it is that the fire suite is reserved for those who have made this all possible. This master suite includes its own bath and the luxury of not one but two balconies. When either Nelson or Jody is at the house this is where they sleep.

By far the culmination of your visit to the Hacienda will be the roof-top terrace often referred to as the skybar. Here is where you will find true communion with nature and the elements. Not only is this a favorite dining spot, but it is where people come to take in the breath-taking sunsets, have the first drink of the evening or just contemplate the stars which appear so close your feel like you could just reach up an touch them. Many a guest has ascended to this point only to conclude that it simply does not get any better than this.

Ironically, and as nice as the accommodations are, most guests spend relatively little time in their rooms. There is simply too much to see and do. Our primary concern is that you have a comfortable place to rest and relax. Once you arrive you will be well cared for. Once you have made it through even just one day you are sure to feel like the lord of the manor and master of all that you survey; it is just that kind of a spot. Put your mind at ease, enjoy a good night's sleep listening to the gentle breezes and the lapping of the waves off in the distance. Morning will bring a platter of fresh fruit and plenty of strong Dominican coffee.